Archive | December, 2009

About this hiatus

23 Dec

My family arrived Saturday night, and since then I’ve been touring nonstop and going to a few classes here and there.  But we’ve been having the most AMAZING time with Chaim, who can virtually get us in anywhere, even if we’re technically not supposed to be able to get in.

Short list of what we’ve done so far: Masada, Qumran, Augusta Victoria Hospital (in East Jerusalem, so not really supposed to go there), random East Jerusalem archaeological sifting site, Good Samaritan Museum (awesome mosaics), Temple Mount, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Ethiopian “village” in the Old City right next to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  Check the Twitter updates for my travel status!

Holidaze: Channukah

17 Dec

חג אורים שמח לכולם = Chag oorim sameach l’kulam = Happy festival of lights to everyone!

I won’t explain the history of Channukah here, but if you want a solid explanation check out David Brooks’ op-ed in the New York Times.  Most of us grew up with gelt and dreidels, presents and cheesy Halmark cards a la Christmas, a romantic and idealized image of the Maccabees, greasy latkes and, in my case, a brisket.  In college, you forsake family traditions for Hillel parties and hasty candlelightings when the Hebrew calendar doesn’t match up with the winter break and instead coincides with final exams.

This year was obviously going to be different.  Last weekend I went on a Rothberg-organized trip to the Negev (the desert in the south) to a town called Mitzpeh Ramon.  We left really early on Friday morning and arrived at our first hike still early in the morning.  No one had told us beforehand what these hikes would entail, but I had expected something with a defined path.  I was wrong.

The first half hour was relatively flat ground, not so rocky, and we arrived at a beautiful lookout where we got our first panorama view of a machtesh, an “erosion crater” that originated from the buildup of the calcium carbonate in fish skeletons (what a lovely thought) and the erosion of the water that used to be there instead of from the impact of a meteor that crashes into the earth, which is what we generally think of as a crater:

It was so very breathtaking, but the magic wore off when our guide announced that we were hiking down the machtesh.  I won’t say much, except that it was very steep, rocky, and seemingly endless.  There were a few metal handholds and rickety metal railings here and there, but all we had for balance was rocks and most of the time it was not clear where we were supposed to walk.  Once we completed the descent, we were then informed that we would be walking across the entire machtesh, and that it was impossible to get lost since all of the ravines lead to the way out.  This is the inside:

Our hostel was located literally across the street from the biggest machtesh in the country, Machtesh Ramon:

Besides that hike, the rest of the trip involved eating ridiculous amounts of sufganiyot (jelly donuts), stargazing, karaoke, and general lazing around and relaxing.  Unfortunately I had to leave early on the last day in order to make a doctor’s appointment, but I still had a lot of fun.

I’ve been lighting candles with my apartment mates every night.  Every day there’s been free sufganiyot and/or latkes in the International School.  Talk ‘n Save, the phone rental company, was one such purveyor of free fried dough filled with jelly.  I guess they were trying to butter us up since they charge us exorbitant rates.  Yesterday afternoon there was some sort of Christian choir singing Channukah songs in the 3rd-floor lobby.  In Hebrew class we had a special shira (song session), our teacher gave us Channukah cookies.  It’s true, life is better during Channukah.

But Rothberg is not the real world, and I wanted to see Channukah in Jerusalem for myself, so after my last class yesterday I bused to the Old City to walk around and hopefully catch some candlelighting action.  It was about 4 p.m. when I arrived, and I didn’t know when the sun would set because it was so cloudy, but I went to the Kotel anyway.  The Channukiah hadn’t been lit yet, so I walked around the Jewish Quarter for a while.  First, I ran into a group of Israeli tourists (always a weird site in the Old City) who were watching (presumably) a rabbi light the candles, and so I joined in:

After some more wandering, I saw that everyone in the Old City has this type of Channukiah, a glass box on the outside of the house that has 9 shot-glass-type glasses filled with oil and a wick in each.  Then I went back down to the Kotel, and it turned out I was in the right place at the right time because they were lighting the gigantic Channukiah.  Before and after:

The guy on the left in the second picture is someone I like to think of as an old acquaintance.  It’s none other than Gideon Sa’ar, the Minister of Education, who I saw up-close at the Rabin memorial rally!  He spoke about education and kids and that sort of fluffy stuff once the rabbi had finished lighting the Channukiah, but it was getting late and I had a Channukah dinner to cook for, so I left after a few minutes.  The traffic, I must say, was absolutely ridiculous.  It took me an hour and 15 minutes on the Number 1 bus to get from Damascus Gate to the Central Bus Station, a ride that normally takes a half hour.

A few images I’ll leave you with are our Channukah dinner spread (sorry for the weird angle) and a close-up of sufganiyot:

Ok, I lied.  The last thing I’m posting is a video of The Leevees (Guster frontman’s side project) singing “Gelt Melts”:

Olmert’s peace plan goes public

17 Dec

Today’s Ha’aretz exclusive is a detailed map of what Olmert offered to Abbas in September 2008.

Olmert wanted to annex 6.3 percent of the West Bank to Israel, areas that are home to 75 percent of the Jewish population of the territories. His proposal would have also involved evacuation of dozens of settlements in the Jordan Valley, in the eastern Samarian hills and in the Hebron region. In return for the annexation to Israel of Ma’aleh Adumim, the Gush Etzion bloc of settlements, Ariel, Beit Aryeh and settlements adjacent to Jerusalem, Olmert proposed the transfer of territory to the Palestinians equivalent to 5.8 percent of the area of the West Bank as well as a safe-passage route from Hebron to the Gaza Strip via a highway that would remain part of the sovereign territory of Israel but where there would be no Israeli presence…The implementation of the Olmert plan would require the evacuation of tens of thousands of settlers…

Olmert has also suggested that this map serve as the basis for the “resumption of negotiations with the Palestinians.”  Too bad he doesn’t have much clout right now.

Politicking: Is Netanyahu a peacemaker?

15 Dec

Finally, something to write about!  My absence was due to the fact that things have been relatively calm here in Israel for the past 6-day stretch, which is a good thing when it comes to the burden of political turmoil that weighs down on the country, but which is a bad thing for a blogger looking for new developments to comment on.  Today’s New York Times features a Middle East news analysis from none other than Ethan Bronner.  And what an analysis indeed: “Netanyahu, Echoing Predecessors, Shifts to Center.”

Bronner’s claim is, in fact, that Netanyahu is following in the footsteps of Menachem Begin, Ariel Sharon, and Ehud Olmert by shifting to the center despite his Likud affiliation, and is clearly “facing a rebellion from within his party” because

After a long career supporting Israeli settlement in occupied land and rejecting Palestinian statehood, Mr. Netanyahu said last June that he accepted two states. Three weeks ago, he imposed a 10-month freeze on building new residential Jewish housing in the West Bank, something no Israeli leader had done before.

The anti-Netanyahu feeling at the protest last week was quite apparent, and it is clear that the Jewish settlers in the West Bank see the prime minister as a traitor.  The more “liberal” settlers tend to support Likud, but President Shimon Peres says that in his private meetings with Netanyahu, the prime minister has voiced that he is “worried about his political base.”  However, continued Peres,

‘He wants to be the man that makes the peace. He is not sure about the cost of it. He wouldn’t like to find himself in a situation where he makes peace and discovers in the morning that he doesn’t have a majority for it. That’s his dilemma.”

Regardless of Netanyahu’s true intentions, the Palestinians remain skeptical.  Chief Palestinian negotiator Saeb Erekat says that Israel “‘continues to prioritize settlements and the relentless colonization of occupied Palestinian land, rendering the two-state solution politically and economically unviable.’”  Bronner also mentions the fact that the Palestinians “have concluded that they can get further by appealing to international bodies than returning to negotiations with this Israeli government.”

Are Netanyahu’s grand gestures grand enough?  Definitely not, in comparison to those of Sharon, Olmert, and Begin.  Netanyahu’s freeze doesn’t apply to public buildings, leaves East Jerusalem out, and still permits “nearly 3,000 units to be completed.”  Sharon defected from Likud and formed his own political party, Kadima, in order to completely withdraw from the Gaza Strip.  Olmert offered a Palestinian state encompassing the Gaza Strip and 94 percent of the West Bank.  Begin pulled out of the Sinai, Israel’s largest territorial gain during the Six Day War in 1967 and a very strategic piece of land, in order to sign a peace treaty with Egypt.  A 10-month settlement freeze that isn’t a total freeze just doesn’t measure up when you take into consideration Palestinian red lines, i.e. a return to the 1967 lines.  While it is clear that Netanyahu is breaking ranks, he is also meticulously calculating the political costs.

In case you’ve been living on Mars, I’ll tell you that Channukah is in full swing.  A lengthy post on that coming up tomorrow night.

“We remind U.S. citizens that even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly escalate into violence. U.S. citizens are therefore urged to avoid the areas of demonstrations if possible”

9 Dec

Apparently this was the warning issued by the American Consulate in Jerusalem regarding the massive anti-settlement freeze protest that happened tonight at Sarafat Square in downtown Jerusalem.  Turnout was expected to be 10,000 to 15,000 people, and Ha’aretz reports “over 10,000.”  I didn’t think it was that high, but I also didn’t arrive until about 2 hours after everything had started.

There was a stage with a band that played klezmer versions of Ha’Tikvah and songs I didn’t know, the program alternated between rousing speakers and fuzzy videos, and my room mates and I were the only females there wearing pants as far as I knew.  One thing about the videos: you can’t help but sympathize with the settlers when you see realtime footage of Israeli police/military authorities pushing them back from the front lines as they fight to protect their homes.  I’m not gung-ho pro-settlement per se, but these people are very good at tugging your heartstrings.

A few Members of Knesset spoke, and I found that I could understand much of what they said, courtesy of the seemingly random vocabulary I learn in ulpan.  Yeshiva boys waved flags, paraded around with signs, and danced the hora, and “it was a scene,” as my floormates from Toronto would say:

What I noticed most was the extreme anti-Obama sentiment (the second one says, “Obama wants us frozen, God wants us chosen”):

The signage was all around very interesting and included as much English as Hebrew:

The main slogan (also printed on many a hoodie) was “Leeshbor et ha’hakpa’ah,” or “Break the freeze”(the red), another sign said “Mamshichim v’bonim” in blue (“We continue and build”), and of course there was National Unity propaganda that said something about the Israeli army being victorious:

Ha’aretz also reports that “several…West Bank settlement mayors” were in attendance in addition to several MKs, and that National Union MK Aryeh Eldad said:

“When Netanyahu speaks of a settlement freeze he means a disengagement…Jews are not popsicles; you don’t freeze us so fast…The people of Israel are telling you today,” Eldad continued, “we are not frozen so fast and we are not beaten so fast.”

According to the Jerusalem Post, longtime Likudnik Benny Kashriel, the mayor of Ma’aleh Adumim (which is super close to Hebrew U), pleaded with Netanyahu to stay true to his party’s platform:

“We worked together for 18 years. And for 18 years you instructed me to develop the land. Do not change your path today. We will be by your side to help you withstand American pressure.”

I don’t know who said this, but it was definitely my favorite quote of the night: “Mah anachnu, schnitzel?” = “What are we, schnitzel?”

The demonstration obviously wasn’t dangerous, but I still got a kick out of running down there in spite of the American Consulate’s warning.  And now, after experiencing a pro-peace rally and an “anti-freeze” protest, I’ve gotten both perspectives.

“In Bruges,” Part 2: Grote Markt, Christ’s blood, and a picnic, or How the priest scolded me for disrespecting a “holy relic”

7 Dec

My day in Bruges continued with a trip to the Groeninge Museum:

This institution has a very extensive and valuable collection of pieces by the Flemish masters, most notably the Flemish masters, or the “Flemish Primitives” that dominated the art scene in the Southern Netherlands in the 15th century (those people I complained about in an earlier post who only painted Jesus, Mary, the saints, and New Testament scenes).  Although this is neither my favorite period nor school of art, I cannot deny that some of the museum’s paintings are magnificent, such as Jan van Eyck’s 1436 masterpiece, “The Madonna with Canon Joris van der Paele”:

And I won’t say anything more about the museum and its collection because it’s a lot of the same stuff that I saw at the museum in Brussels.  But one funny thing was that a few of the rooms were closed because of a bug infestation.  The museum made a point of posting a laminated photograph of said bugs in one of the exhibition rooms on the wall that separated it from one of the infested rooms, which I thought was pretty hilarious.

After that I took a stroll around Bruges’ Grote Markt, the central square surrounded by touristy eateries, bars, and souvenir shops.  There are so many of them that the original architecture almost sticks out like a sore thumb:

And this is the Gothic bell tower, which I wanted to climb but didn’t because the line was too long the three times I checked and it also cost in the neighborhood of 8 Euros:

So Bruges actually has two town squares, and the other one is just called the Burg Square.  This is the gothic town hall built in 1376:

The real attraction in Burg Square, however, is the Church of the Holy Blood.  What a name, you must be thinking to yourselves.  Well, its name comes from the fact that it houses a “venerated relic of Christ: his very blood, collected by Joseph of Arimathea.”  The first historical record to mention the Holy Blood in Bruges dates from 1256.  The relic supposedly came from Constantinople when the city was “sacked” in 1204 during the Fourth Crusade by the army of Count of Flanders Baldwin IX; he probably sent the Holy Blood to Bruges shortly after.

About the relic itself: “The Holy Blood relic is embedded in a rock-crystal vial, which is placed inside a small glass cylinder capped with a golden crown at each end. The relic is kept in a magnificent silver tabernacle…in the large side chapel of the upper church.”  This is the upper chapel:

On Ascension Day, celebrated 40 days after Easter to commemorate Jesus’ ascension to heaven, the church holds the Procession of the Holy Blood in which “the bishop of Bruges carries the relic through the streets, accompanied by costumed residents acting out biblical scenes.”  Every day, however, the relic is taken out of the tabernacle and laid on a pillow to be worshiped in a ceremony, and the public is welcome to attend.  It’s actually a tourist favorite.  I guess if you’re Christian you’re supposed to actually touch the vial (the priest wipes it off after each person touches it but a) I’m not Christian and b) I don’t want swine flu), but I wanted to get a good look and a good picture as well.  That is exactly what I did, but the priest wasn’t too happy about my photography.  She said something to me as I walked away from her pulpit-thing, but I did get away with it.  I guess I feel the slightest remorse for disrespecting a holy relic, which for Christians represents the body of Christ (yay Medieval Jewish History class that gives me context!) but how often do you get to see Christ’s blood?  So without further ado:

I immediately left the church to avoid awkward stares and get some more fresh air before I had to go to the train station.  After some more tooling around the quiet streets of Bruges on my bike, I stopped in here for some take-out:

And then I went to the park across the street for a picnic:

By this time I was tired and ready for a nice nap on the train, so I returned my bike and went back to Brussels. Although I didn’t like it any more than Brussels, I thoroughly enjoyed the sites and sounds of Bruges.  For a small city it has a very rich history and some interesting traditions. I highly recommend a day trip there to anyone who plans on being in that area of Europe.

Another life update: Papers, parents, and the press

6 Dec

The last month of fall semester is upon me.  Final papers are due in the first week of January, and my family is coming for 10 days at the end of December.  This means that I’m racing against the clock to research and write a total 40 pages in essentially 3 weeks.  My Foreign Policy of Israel paper is on the Camp David Summit in 2000.  All I have to do is talk about why it failed (says my professor), and I’m done.  That’s easy because everything that’s ever been written on the subject talks about its failure.  My paper for Negotiating Middle East Peace, on the other hand, seems like a near-impossible task because there is no scholarly/academic material on the Goldstone Report.  But I’m interested in the topic, so I’m not giving up.  I really wanted to interview Dore Gold, but apparently he’s not in the country much this month, so that won’t happen.  Nonetheless, I will get everything done in a timely fashion.  There’s no other way.

On a brighter note, the Good family arrives in Tel Aviv two weeks from last night.  I’m very excited for a suitcase full of real gum, novels, jeans, Under Armor, and other goodies from the States that I miss so dearly.  But the best thing will be seeing my sister, whom I haven’t seen since the end of June.  We have a lot of days with Haim (Reuven twin/Messiah) who I’m sure will take us to amazing places.  I myself have requested a visit to the security fence.  I also want to go to Bethlehem after my Hebrew final exam (which is on Christmas day, thanks Rothberg).

My parents will also be renting a car, and I must admit that I fear for their lives.  Israeli drivers are of a different breed entirely.  I also have a free bus pass now, so I like taking the bus as much as I can because I can bask in its free-ness.  On the other hand, it will be nice to have a break from the bumpy 4א, which I ride 4 times a week for my internship.  The best part, however, will be lots of dinners out and sleepovers in the hotel with a real mattress.  I’ve forgotten what a real mattress is.

And now for the press.  My philosophy is that I have a lovely press pass, and I need to use it.  Today at the JCPA I got my hands on the email contact for the Government Press Office, which is run out of the Prime Minister’s Office.  I emailed him, and got a swift reply that began with a rousing “how ’bout them Saints.”  I like this guy already, even though he’s a Steelers fan (so he told me).  He told me to apply for a GPO press card, meaning I would have to go to the GPO which is apparently a hassle because the woman who runs the administrative stuff there is a real tough cookie.  I have most of the materials needed for an application, so I am going to try.

A Europe update: I’ve book a few flights, gotten myself a place to stay in Paris, and I have a nice Excel document outlining my itinerary.  I’m going to: France, Italy, Switzerland, Denmark, Germany, the Czech Republic, and the Netherlands.  Out of the 6 weeks of my trip, I’m spending 2 in France, so my parents are also bringing a French-English dictionary for me. You’d be surprised how many basic words one forgets after not speaking the language for 6 months; in Belgium I had to rack my brain for the French equivalents to “but” and “because” quite a few times.  I’m getting really excited.  I leave in a month.  And despite the cold and damp, I may not want to come back.

Also, it’s “that time.”  Thinking about my senior thesis has become an existential crisis.  How do I choose just one thing to write about?  What happens when I get sick of my topic and just want to put everything through a shredder and take to my computer with a sledgehammer?  And how do I choose an advisor when I’m not sure how many Political Science professors are being sacked because of the economy?

Hopefully I’ll be able to relax next weekend on Rothberg Hannukah trip to the Negev, where we’ll stay in a hotel, go on leisurely hikes, and eat lots of sufganiyot (jelly donuts that we eat during Hannukah)!

Politicking: Iran simulation

6 Dec

Listen up, people, because you probably won’t hear or read about this anywhere else.  Dore Gold the president of the Jerusalem Center for Public Affairs (where I intern), just returned to Israel from a weekend simulation game about Iran at Harvard’s Kennedy School of Government. Word on the street (and by street I mean the JCPA publication department) is that the event was supposed to be kept secret, but that it eventually leaked.  Before I get into the players and whatnot, I’m sure you’re all on the edge of your seats about the results, so here’s the summary from Arutz Sheva:

A simulation conducted at Harvard University’s Kennedy School of Government over the weekend predicts that the United States will fail in its efforts to prevent Iran from acquiring nuclear weapons, and will, for lack of other options, attempt to convince Iran not to use those weapons. The simulation further predicts that a serious crisis will break out between Israel and the U.S., as Washington pressures Jerusalem not to take any defensive action against Iran’s weapon, while Israel insists on its right to self defense.

Don’t duck and cover yet, folks, it was just an exercise.  But as the Washington Post’s David Ignatius explains, “it revealed some important real-life dynamics — and the inability of any diplomatic strategy, so far, to stop the Iranian nuclear push.”

The simulation was organized by Graham Allison, a political scientist, professor, and head of the Belfer Center at Harvard’s Kennedy School of Government.  His area of expertise is bureaucratic decision making in times of crisis, and he achieved international renown in the world of academia for his analysis of the Cuban Missile Crisis and application of decision making models in the late 1960s and 1970s.  I myself trudged through his “Conceptual Models and the Cuban Missile Crisis” last year in my U.S. Foreign Policy class.

Nicholas Burns, a former undersecretary of state, played President Obama; Dore Gold (Israel’s former ambassador to the UN) played Prime Minister Netanyahu; and Columbia University professor Gary Sick, who has served in the National Security Council under numerous administrations, led the Iranian team.

The strategies were as follows:

Obama’s America wants to avoid war, which means restraining Israel; Iran wants to continue its nuclear program, even as it dickers over a deal to enrich uranium outside its borders, such as the one floated in Geneva in October; Israel doesn’t trust America to stop Iran and is looking for help from the Gulf Arab countries and Europe.

American strategy snagged when it came to economic sanctions, because “congressional demands for unilateral U.S. sanctions against companies involved in Iran’s energy sector…ended up backfiring, since some of the key companies were from Russia and China — the very nations whose support the United States needs for strong U.N. sanctions. The Russians and Chinese were so offended that they began negotiating with Tehran behind America’s back.”

I feel that a lot of people who don’t think Iran will achieve nuclear capabilities argue that it doesn’t have the necessary economic resources to do so.  I think I mentioned in an earlier post that China has a huge energy deal with Iran.  That, combined with Russia’s oil connection, would definitely be a bone of contention.  It would be enough to ruin a strategic partnership between the U.S. and Russia and China in terms of Iran.  Energy is huge for China and Russia, so if the U.S. would ever try to undermine that sector, there is no doubt in my mind that they would play the political game and start negotiating with Iran.  China has people to feed, and Russia is still trying to shed its Cold War history so it can compete on a level playing field with the U.S.

This is how Iran ended up “winning” and the U.S. “lost”:

The U.S. team — unable to stop the Iranian nuclear program and unwilling to go to war — concluded the game by embracing a strategy of containment and deterrence. The Iranian team wound up with Russia and China as its diplomatic protectors.

While the U.S. pursues a relatively diplomatic route, which ultimately ends with a “December 2010 hypothetical endpoint” at which Iran has “doubled its supply of low-enriched uranium” and is “pushing ahead with weaponization,” Israel and the U.S. are having an all-out brawl in which the “Israeli team ended in a sharp break with Washington.”

According to Ignatius, the biggest problem for “Obama” was his relationship with “Netanyahu,” but I could have predicted that:

…they had two sharp exchanges in which America asked for assurances that Israel wouldn’t attack Iran without U.S. permission. The Israeli prime minister…refused to make that pledge, insisting that Israel alone must decide how to protect its security. Whereupon Burns’s president warned that if Israel did strike, contrary to U.S. interests, Washington might publicly denounce the attack — producing an open break as in the 1956 Suez crisis.

It’s understandable that the U.S. doesn’t want another Suez (Egypt nationalized the Suez Canal, a move that threatened Israeli shipping; Israel invaded; and the U.S. got angry), and an Israeli strike on Iran without permission from the U.S. would indeed create an “open break.”  Netanyahu echoes Ben Gurion’s headstrong personality (minus the charisma), and Netanyahu has shown that he will not allow the U.S. to dictate how and when Israel should protect itself.

The difference, as evidenced in both Burns’ and Dore’s comments, comes down to prevention versus containment:

“The most difficult problem we have is how to restrain Israel,” said Burns. “My own view is that we need to play for a long-term solution, avoid a third war in the Greater Middle East and wear down the Iranians over time.”Gold said the game clarified for him a worrying difference of opinion between U.S. and Israeli leaders: “The U.S. is moving away from preventing a nuclear Iran to containing a nuclear Iran — with deterrence based on the Cold War experience. That became clear in the simulation. Israel, in contrast, still believes a nuclear Iran must be prevented.”

Basically, the simulation showed that “diplomacy will become much harder next year.”  Burns says “‘the U.S. may have to restrain Israel,’” like it’s something the U.S. has been thinking about for a while and that it’s willing to do.  Of course, the U.S. has significant leverage on Israel in terms of arms deals, aid, etc., but whether or not Netanyahu will heed that leverage remains to be determined.  Israel is certainly capable of attacking Iran without help from the U.S., and it certainly has a much better economy than it did in 1956 when Israel was being flooded with Jews from Arab countries.  The question is whether or not Israel values its relationship with the U.S. a) more than they value prevention and/or b) less than the U.S. thinks Israel values it.  Things are going to get messy, and I’m excited (in a weird way) to see what happens.  Hope I didn’t scare anyone too much.

Politicking: An EU proposal to divide Jerusalem

3 Dec

I was inspired to break my Belgium posts up with some nitty-gritty political stuff after my Negotiating Middle East Peace class, which always gets me in the mood.

This whole business about the European Union’s proposal to divide Jerusalem between Israel and a future Palestinian state is a few weeks old and therefore not news, but Ha’aretz has magically obtained a copy of that draft proposal spearheaded by Sweden, which currently holds the EU presidency.

Before I dive into this I must mention that around the time the EU announced this proposal, it also rejected the Palestinian Authority’s appeal to support its endorsement as an independent state by the United Nations.  On November 17, Swedish Foreign Minister Carl Bidlt presented the PA’s appeal as irrational, stubborn, and premature, saying that “the conditions are not there as of yet” and that the appeal was “clearly an act borne by a difficult situation where they don’t see any road ahead.”  Once the Oslo Process really set in motion a framework for negotiations between Israel and the Palestinians, the legitimacy of these one-sided declarations became short-lived.  The whole world knows the issue must be solved by negotiations and eventually some sort of peaceful territorial change.

That said, the EU wants peaceful territorial change by way of dividing Jerusalem. Yesterday, Israel officially decried the proposal (which isn’t supposed to be made public until an EU meeting in Brussels early next week), claiming that “such a move would further harm the chances of renewing the Mideast peace process” as well as the EU’s ability to be a significant mediator.  I happen to agree.  The vision of the draft proposal can be summed up in its first article:

The Council of the European Union is seriously concerned about the stalemate in the Middle East peace process.  The European Union calls for the urgent resumption of negotiations that will lead, within an agreed time-frame, to a two-state solution with an independent, democratic, contiguous and viable state of Palestine, comprising the West Bank and Gaza and with East Jerusalem as its capital, living side by side in peace and security with the State of Israel.

Two problems: Number one, it’s hard to put a time-frame on a Palestinian state that includes both the West Bank and Gaza when the governments of the two territories are bitter rivals.  As I have emphasized before, nothing can move forward without a reconciliation and formal agreements between them.  Of course, the EU did include a provision for that, stating “The Council calls on all Palestinians to promote reconciliation behind President Mahmoud Abbas and support for the mediation efforts between Egypt and the Arab league, in order to avoid a permanent division within Palestine between the West Bank, including East Jerusalem, and Gaza.”  The problem with this kind of talk is that Abbas won’t be president come February.  Number two, “living side by side in peace and security” won’t happen until Hamas recognizes Israel and renounces terrorism, which is nowhere in the near future.

Citing that “it has never recognised the annexation of East Jerusalem,” the proposal concludes that dividing Jerusalem is the only way to reach a comprehensive settlement and final status agreement, and that’s basically the gist of things.

As for Israel’s claim that the EU is diminishing its ability to be a major player in negotiations by putting forth this proposal, The Independent said “the Swedish EU move is thought to be designed to encourage Mahmoud Abbas, the Palestinian Authority President, to enter negotiations with Israel by providing him with additional guarantees that the international community envisages broadly the same outcome as he does.”  If it were indeed true that the proposal is designed to coax Abbas with a guarantee from the international community that everyone is on his side, then the EU would not be an acceptable 3rd party mediator because of the issue of impartiality and how that would translate into justice, i.e. “the balanced settlement of conflicting claims.”  In this case, there would be no justice because the EU already has a solution in mind that it is not willing to revise or reconsider.

That’s all for now.  I promise, only 2 more Belgium blogs and then back to the real world.

“In Bruges,” Part 1: Canals, a famous hospital, and Michaelangelo, or How I remembered that the rest of the world celebrates Christmas

2 Dec

I’m really proud of myself.  Why?  Because I don’t really do things spur of the moment.  I prefer to plan and avoid spontaneity gone wrong.  A few days before I left for Belgium, however, I got an email from my grandparents telling me to make sure to go to Bruges (Brugge in Flemish), the capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders in the country’s Flemish region, which just happens to be an hour’s train ride from Brussels.  By this time I had already planned most of my trip, but I Wikitravel-ed Bruges and discovered that it would be well worth the day trip.

A little bit of background: Even though human activity in Bruges dates back to the 1st century BCE, the city’s golden age began in the 12th century when it got its charter and built itself new walls and canals, the latter being the city’s defining feature.  The local cloth and wool industries flourished, and Flemish painting gained world renown.  That golden period began to tarnish around the 16th century, when Antwerp became the economic flagship of the Low Countries.  Bruges didn’t undergo a significant revitalization until the 2nd half of the 20th century.

It was on a damp, crisp morning that I left the offensive garishness of Brussels for the sunny, quaint beauty of Bruges.  I arrived wide-eyed and eager to begin my adventure, and the first thing I did was rent a bike at the train station, which turned out to be a very good decision except, of course, for the sore buttocks I suffered by the end of the day.

The first thing one notices after exiting the highway and crossing a cute bridge that looked like it came right out of a fairytale is the meaning of the town’s nickname, the “Venice of Belgium”:

I ended up on Katelijnestraat, your average cobblestone Bruges street:

…which led me first to the St. John’s Hospital Museum.  The oldest known document with rules for the hospital dates from 1188.  Although the “brothers and sisters” didn’t belong to a religious order with strict rules at the time, they became a real religious order with formal vows in the 15th century.  The hospital was an incredibly wealthy institution with a vast estate, evidenced by its impressive collection of art, including a chapel full of works by Hans Memling, the preeminent Flemish painter of the 15th century.  Around 1600 the institution became all female, and it only ceased to operate as a hospital in 1978.  Today, the building houses what I thought was the most interesting museum in Bruges:

Inside, I saw lots of really cool things, like relics/reliquaries, centuries-old official hospital documents and log-books, surgical tools (including some used for “brain operations”), and beautiful art.  This is what the interior looks like now, compared to a painting of what it used be:

Technically, photography was not allowed, but I got a very nice shot of a small Shrine of St. Ursula from the turn of the 15th century, the predecessor to the elaborate Memling masterpiece on display in the chapel, also known as the Memling Museum:

Other Memling works in the museum:

I left the museum feeling like I got my 1 Euro’s worth, and I knew I was getting even more bang for my buck when I walked across the street to the Church of Our Lady, which dates from as early as the 13th century.  The exterior is trivial, rather it’s the large chapel in the southern aisle inside that truly fascinates the visitor:

Here’s the description: The ‘Madonna and Child’ (1504-5) by Michaelangelo Buonarotti is carved in Carrara marble.  Originally it was intended for an altar in the Cathedral of Sienna but The Mouscron family of Bruges bought it and gave it to Our Lady’s Church.  It is one of the few works by Michaelangelo outside of Italy.  One is struck by the contemplative Virgin with the naked child between her knees.  The expressive work never fails to move and impress the beholder.

So I saw some Michaelangelo in Belgium, which was incredibly cool, and it was definitely one of the advantages of taking a day trip to Bruges.  I would have posted the pictures with me in them, but the random guy I asked to take my picture did it with an angle so that it looked like I was wearing the sculpture as a hat.  I still can’t decide whether he was trying to be funny or was just a coincidence.

One thing that I really did notice during my day in Bruges was the fact that the Christmas spirit was in full swing:

It’s quite easy to forget that the rest of the world celebrates Christmas when you live in a Jewish country.  And I did have a sudden urge to go ice skating, but I was also carrying a backpack, which is not so conducive to that type of activity.  Just to go off on a tangent here, a few nights ago I was watching a Christmas movie with an Israeli (“Love Actually”) who asked me what the Nativity was.  And then I realized just how far away I am from the U.S.  But Hannukah is coming up really soon, and I’m super excited to say “Nes gadol hayah po” (“A great miracle happened here”) instead of “Nes gadol hayah sham” (“A great miracle happened there”).  More about Bruges/Brugge in the next post!

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